Welcome to the second blog post in our Metal Education series. After explaining some metal terminology in our last post, we now explore specific metals. We’ll start with one of the most versatile alloys of a precious metal: Sterling silver. The sterling silver article will be posted in two installments. Part 1 covers issues for the consumer, including basics of the alloy, history, and uses. Part 2 will be for the metalsmiths in the readership: working properties, techniques, and equipment.
About the metal
Sterling silver is an alloy made of at least 92.5 % pure silver and 7.5%
other metals, most often copper. Some sterling silver alloys contain
low percentages of other metals like germanium, zinc, palladium or
platinum to increase strength, to reduce tarnish and firescale, or for
better casting properties. As long as the resulting metal alloy contains
92.5% silver, it is still referred to as sterling silver, or simply
sterling. Sterling silver jewelry is traditionally marked with a 925
stamp. The number stands for the 925 parts silver per 1000 parts of
total metal alloy. According to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), “it
is unfair or deceptive to mark, describe, or otherwise represent all or
part of an industry product as silver, solid silver, sterling silver,
sterling, or the abbreviation ster. unless it is at least 925/1,000ths
pure silver.”
Pure or fine silver is alloyed with copper for strength because fine silver alone is too soft for many applications. The Vickers Hardness of sterling silver is approximately 75 HV, while fine silver has a value of only 35 HV. For comparison, 14k white gold has a hardness of 125 to 165 HV depending on the alloy. Palladium (950TruPD) has a hardness of 115HV and platinum alloys range from 115 to 170 HV. So, although sterling silver is much harder than fine silver, it is still soft compared to other precious metals.
As of October 2012 the price for silver varies from 30 to 35 USD per ounce. This price is about 150 times more expensive than copper, and about 50 times less expensive than gold or platinum.
History
Sterling is an old alloy and its true origin is uncertain. It was adopted as a standard alloy during the 12th century when Henry II imported the alloy from a region of Germany called Easterling. By the 13th Century, currency made from this alloy was known as Easterling silver. Other references say that the term sterling is a derivation from the old French “esterlin,” which meant “little star,” in reference to stars found on Norman coins of the 11th century. Although silver has been used since ancient times for jewelry and decoration, the biggest use for sterling silver alloys was coinage until Victorian times.
By the 18th century, sterling silver flatware and serveware became popular to serve the elaborate multi-course meals that were de rigeur in Victorian times. The apogee of sterling silverware was between 1840 and 1920. After the Second World War, sterling silver flatware fell out of favor due to rising labor costs and a move toward more practical dining customs.
Uses for Sterling Silver
Sterling silver is a great metal choice for many applications, including
jewelry, vessels, bowls and utensils, and small sculptures. Although
silver is the least expensive noble metal, the price is still
prohibitive for larger sculptures.
Sterling silver is the whitest of all the precious metal alloys. Other white metals like white gold, palladium and platinum have a yellow or gray tone. Silver can be buffed to a more brilliant shine than any other metal, or can take a satin, matte, brushed, sandblasted, oxidized (chemically blackened), textured or antiqued finish.
We’ll discuss a few uses for sterling silver in its most popular modern application, jewelry.
Necklaces, pendants, brooches, and earrings
Sterling silver is a perfect choice for jewelry that doesn’t get banged around much, like earrings, necklaces, pendants, and brooches. Sterling silver is lighter than gold, palladium or platinum, making it a great metal for earrings.
Hoops and ear wires need to be heat-treated or work-hardened to hold
their shape. For people that are sensitive to sterling silver in their
piercings, ear wires or posts can be made out of gold or platinum, which
may help with metal allergies.
Check out
earrings,
necklaces,
pendants and
brooches made by our wonderful Etsymetal jewelers.
Rings and bracelets
Sterling silver is a great choice for fashionable designer and cocktail
rings, bracelets, and casual jewelry. However, because it is soft, some
care should be taken when choosing sterling silver jewelry that will
take a lot of abuse, especially rings and bracelets.
Although
the metal is lovely and the price is right, sterling silver is not the
best choice for engagement or wedding rings that need to hold up to
years of daily wear and tear. Silver bands can bend out of shape and the
surface can scratch deeply. Thin areas and fine details will wear
completely away with time. If you still prefer a silver wedding band for
its look or its price point, be sure to choose a fairly heavy band with
sturdy construction and no delicate features. Avoid thin wire-like
bands, very delicate detail, and filigree. Note also that any patina on
sterling silver will wear away with time, except in the crevices that
are protected from the constant buffing action of daily activities.
Commercial sterling silver bands are sometimes plated with rhodium to protect the shine and prevent tarnishing – but the rhodium will wear off with time showing unsightly patches where it wore off. It will eventually need to be replated, which can be costly. In addition, rhodium plating requires adding a layer of nickel first, which causes allergies in many people once it gets exposed to the skin. Plating will make any repair work a lot harder as the plating will need to be removed and then redone after the repair is complete. Unless one really hates removing tarnish and does not plan to wear their jewelry much, it is recommended to just leave sterling silver in its natural un-plated state. For quality affordable wedding bands, the best silver bands are made with sterling silver without rhodium plating.
Check out these beautiful
wedding rings and
engagement rings made by Etsymetal team members.
Sterling Silver and Gemstones
Sterling silver can be used in many ways to set precious and
semi-precious gemstones in jewelry, and its bright white color looks
great with most gemstones. However, the style of setting and type of
gems to be set in sterling silver should be considered carefully.
Sterling is especially suited for bezel setting and other sturdy types
of settings.
Special care should be taken with delicate prong set gemstones. Silver
prongs can easily bent and the stones lost. Because of the potential for
loss, sterling silver is not a great metal for very expensive stones
like sapphires, rubies, emeralds and diamonds. Large diamonds, being the
hardest material on earth, can over time cut the metal away in the
setting and become loose. A great cost effective alternative is to set
the precious gemstone in a white or yellow gold setting soldered onto a
sterling silver band.
Small diamonds and precious gemstones may be ok when set in sturdy sterling silver settings.
Tarnish and patinas
Fine silver, being a noble metal, does not react with oxygen or water. But it does react with airborne pollutants such as sulfur to form a black tarnish on its surface. Sterling silver tarnishes faster since it contains the base metal copper, which reacts easily with oxygen. Since tarnish is just a thin oxide layer on the surface of the metal, wearing your jewelry frequently is enough to keep it buffed and shiny. If you do get tarnish, polish with a soft jewelry polishing cloth or dipping solution. Avoid harsh abrasive techniques, such as using toothpaste, as this can leave fine scratches on the metal surface and damage gemstones. Because tarnish is caused by oxygen and pollutants in the air, the best way to avoid it is to store your jewelry in an air tight container (like a Ziploc bag) when you’re not wearing it.
See this
great tip for tarnish removal if your jewelry does not contain gemstones, enamels or patinas.
Some jewelry pieces are pre-oxidized to give them an antique look or to highlight textures on the metal. This patina will age over time, making it a truly unique piece. Don’t use any tarnish removal dips on those jewelry pieces, as it will destroy the intentional oxidation.
Resizing
It is fairly easy to resize a ring or other sterling silver piece if there is no gemstone set. Sterling silver rings with gemstones are difficult to resize, since silver conducts heat very well. The heat from soldering will be transferred directly to the gem, which can destroy it. The gem must either be removed, or it must be protected in place while soldering. Both approaches can work, but involve the risk of damage to the gemstone or the setting. Patinas, enamels, and special textures may also be damaged during resizing.
Allergies
Any metal can cause an allergic reaction, though some metals are less allergenic than others. Sterling silver allergies are rare, but they do occur. If you experience a rash under your jewelry, remove the jewelry, clean it well and let the skin heal up. Soaps, lotions, or dirt trapped under the jewelry are a primary cause of jewelry-related dermatitis, so keeping your jewelry clean is key. In addition, “many individuals who believe that they are allergic to silver (or gold) are actually allergic to another metal in the silver alloy used to make their jewelry -- nickel.” (2) Most sterling silver does not contain nickel, but rhodium-plated silver jewelry often has a layer of nickel under the rhodium. Once the plating wears off, nickel gets exposed to the skin and causes allergic reactions. Many people who believe they are sensitive to sterling actually have silver plated jewelry or low-grade silver alloys (Nepali silver, for example), and may experience a reaction to any number of metals in this jewelry. In .925 sterling silver, copper or trace amounts of nickel may be suspected as the allergen. Finally, though silver itself is very hypoallergenic, allergies can occur, and if you are sensitive, you may need to stick with another metal.
Summary
To conclude the pro's and con's of Sterling silver:
Pro's:
- least expensive precious metal alloy
- whitest metal alloy
- most beautiful luster and high polish
- light weight
- easy to oxidize for a high contrast or antique look
Con's:
- very soft metal, scratches and bends easily
- not a great choice for engagement or wedding rings in terms of durability
- tarnishes easily
- harder to resize rings than gold alloys
Feel free to browse the wonderful
sterling silver creations from our Etsymetal Artists.
Stayed tuned for Sterling Silver – Part 2 coming up soon.
Thanks to
Virginie Martin and
Mary Anne Karren for researching, fact checking and editing.
You can see all posts from our our Metal Education Series
here.
Sources :
1. Accounts and Papers of the House of Commons: 1866. Second. House of Commons. 23 March 1866. pp. 14–15. OCLC 11900114
2. http://www.sterling-silver.ws/articles/silver-jewelry/silver-sensitivity.htm
http://www.sterling-silver.ws/
http://www.Wikipedia.com
Knaught, Percy, La découverte du Métal , Les Éditions TIME LIFE, 1974.
McCreight, Tim, Complete Metalsmith, Davis Editions, 2004.
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