Etching Brass and Copper

Etching Brass and Copper with Ferric Chloride

Materials needed:
Ferric Chloride Solution for etching - I found this solution at the local Radio Shack
Gloves, safety glasses, apron
Glass or plastic dish to hold etching solution
Dish for water/baking soda rinse
Clear packing tape
Sharpie markers, or other resist
copper or brass to etch
Green scotchbrite pad for cleaning copper

Safety First: Make sure to read all safety precautions that come with your feric chloride solution. Use good ventilation, and wear proper safety gear.

First, select your metal to be etched. Ferric Chloride will work on copper and brass, but not sterling silver. I suggest no thinner than 24 gauge for etching, I am using 20 gauge for this example. Thicker metal allows for a deeper etch - you don't want it eating all the way through the metal. Scrub the metal clean with a green scotch brite pad, removing all dirt and oils.

Choose your resist, and apply it to the metal. For a real low-tech etch, I am using sharpie markers. The area that is covered by ink will not be etched. Other resists include nail polish, tape, or you can use PnP for photo-etching. It is good to do a test for your first etch, playing around with different lines, patterns, or widths of the sharpie pens. I used ultra fine, fine, and chisel edged sharpies for this test strip.

Once you are finished with your design, place your patterned metal face down on a clean, smooth surface. I am using a large ceramic floor tile. Apply a long length of packing tape to the back, and burnish it down with the end of a plastic paint brush or similar item to remove air bubbles. Pay special attention to the edges - you don't want the solution seeping up underneath the tape. Note: You can also apply resist to the back of the metal, then apply the tape if the back of the piece.

Pour the ferric chloride into your dish so it is approx 1/2 - 3/4 inch deep. Suspend your metal on the top of the solution, using the tape to hold it in place. Make sure the entire surface is in contact with the etching solution. Suspending it on the surface, rather than completely submerging the piece, will also help prevent the etching solution from seeping under the tape.

Allow the metal to etch for at least 30 minutes. I like to gently agitate the solution every 10 minutes or so, by sliding the dish around on the counter top. This helps create a clean, even etch.

Check on the depth of the etch at 30 minutes. You can use a pin to help feel the depth of the etch. If it is not deep enough, place it back in the solution for 5-10 minute intervals. Solution that has been used for a while may need longer etching time.

Once an adequate depth has been reached, carefully remove it from the etching solution and rinse/neutralize in a bath of water and baking soda.

This is what my piece looked like after rinsing/neutralizing and drying. To remove the sharpie marker, you can clean with rubbing alcohol.

I then gave it a good scrub with a brass brush and soapy water, and applied a patina with liver of sulfur.

You can etch all sorts of shapes and sizes, you are only limited by the size of your etching bath. Here are some 1 inch copper discs that have been etched with various patterns. The lower left-hand pattern was done in 2 parts: I drew lines with a fine point sharpe in one direction, etched for 30 minutes. Cleaned off the resist, drew lines in the opposite direction, and etched for an additional 30 minutes. The result was a great woven/textile like pattern.


















These pieces were made by doming the copper discs after etching, and then setting in custom made bezels of fine and sterling silver.





















You don't have to etch just plain ol' sheet metal. Try making your own beads out of brass and copper tubing - round, square, rectangle, etc. Before cleaning and applying your pattern, fill the tube with clay or wax to prevent the etching solution from eating away from both sides of the tubing. Then put a length of silver wire through the tube to suspend the bead in the ferric chloride. (Remember, ferric chloride won't etch the silver)


Disposing of Ferric Chloride:
Please, be responsible when disposing of the ferric chloride solutions. While the bottle may say it is safe to pour down the drain, it is best to call your local hazardous waste authority to confirm. Regulations vary for every state, and even within different counties. For small businesses or hobbyists, there is often no charge at your local drop-off facility. Some cities also have an annual hazardous materials pick-up at no charge to you.